West Coast Trail Ride April 2011

QPA is a riding centre located in the hills just outside the popular beach town of Lagos, in the western Algarve, Portugal. Just ten minutes away from busy beaches, restaurants and shops you will find a quiet, peaceful oasis set in the hills and valleys of Bensafrim. With some 23 horses and ponies, ranging from school ponies to liveries to competition horses, there is something for everyone, from complete beginner to the most experienced rider. Our main team has been working here for 15 years and we know the horses better than we know most of our friends!

Last year one of the summer employees Sarah went on to work for Far and Ride Holidays. Realizing that the potential of this stunning destination goes way beyond a spectacular two hour ride, Far and Ride and QPA joined forces to commence the organisation process for four-day horse riding trips. We were to start and finish at the Quinta and visit many beautiful places in between, an easy task with so much unspoilt countryside around us. A date was set, the routes were planned and checked and the horses (and guides!) started an earlier-than-usual in the year fitness regime to prepare for the 5 clients Sarah had organised, to experience exactly what this side of the Algarve has to offer.

One of the most important things about organizing a ride is to ensure every client it suited to the horse they are paired with. Prior to arrival, each rider completes an evaluation form so we can get some idea of their capabilities and preferences. We tested our theory of horse/rider combination on the arrival day when Jinny, owner of QPA riding centre, took most out on a local hack. Thankfully everyone got on with his or her horse so we were ready to go the next day. After some dinner and “vinho verde” (Portuguese green wine) everyone had an early night.

DAY ONE – QPA to HERDADE DO BEICUDO – CARRAPATEIRA

On longer rides we like people to help get their horses ready if they are capable. It really helps them connect to their horse and often facilitates creating a relationship between the two. So once every one had tacked up their horse, we set off. The horses knew something was up straight away as we turned right at the bottom of the lane instead of the usual left turning for our one and two hour rides! We started out through the village of Bensafrim, a historic little place where most people still do their laundry in the communal washing area. Runa, one of our grey mares, wasn’t such a fan of the flapping clothing, giving Sarah an idea of what we meant with “blonde horse”! After passing through the village and across the main road (the only main road we will ever cross from now on), we started ascending into the hills of the Barão Forest. At this point the higher you get, the better the views: endless countryside of hills covered in pine and cork trees, wild birds and footprints left behind by mongoose and wild boar. The cistus plants blossom in April, giving an illusion of snowflakes along the hills, which in fact are the large white flowers that grace each shrub.

After nearly two hours of riding and testing the waters for Nat, our guide, by having a few trots and canters, Sue (yard manager at QPA) and her son Freddie met us on the top of one of the hills. We tied the horses to the surrounding trees and gave them some lunch before we had a picnic of sandwiches, beer and chocolates. Once everyone had refuelled we were ready to set off again, hopped back on the horses (well David didn’t quite “hop” onto his 17hand Forest) and continued on our path. We passed by an old Portuguese farmhouse, with chickens and dogs running around and started descending into the Valley of Rivers. It is actually only one river, but we cross it 16, yes, sixteen times before arriving at our destination: Herdade do Beicudo. 
Heading towards the farm after lunch 
Deborah, the owner of the Herdade, was waiting for us there and showed us where the horses would spend the night. After everyone had a shower (horse and rider), Jinny took us in the jeep to explore the nearby coastline before sitting down for dinner at Sitio do Rio, Carrapateira, and every one got their first taste of good Portuguese food: chicken piri-piri and freshly grilled fish.


DAY TWO – HERDADE DO BEICUDO – CASTELEJO BEACH AND BACK

Unfortunately the weather wasn’t on our side this morning. It was raining a bit and we decided to set off a bit later to avoid starting out in wet saddles. It was well worth the wait, as we didn’t have another drop of rain and the sky opened up into the bright blue colours we are used to seeing here on nearly a daily basis.   
We headed up towards the village of Pedralva, rode across the cobbled stones with some people peeking out of their little houses – 24 horseshoes can make quite some noise!


We rode through the pine forest up to the giant wind turbines where we met Nidia, our local guide for that area. Nidia took us through a lovely shaded and sandy area of pines which cleared into possibly the most breathtaking moment of the ride: A track that runs along the cliffs of the Portuguese west coast in the Costa Vicentina National Park. At some 150meters above sea level, those with vertigo felt the need to stick to the left side of the track! An amazing pathway that led us directly onto the beach!

Due to our later start the tide had come in and we had a challenging route along the beach, having to step over a rock or two here and there, but all the QPA horses proved their ability to transform into mountain goats and we got across safely onto the next beach. From there it was a steep climb to get to our lunch destination: Castelejo beach restaurant, run by Nidia’s family. In true cowboy style the horses were tied to the railings, much to the amusement of the beach-goers that day!



As always the horses got their lunch first and some well deserved fresh water before we sat down to an amazing lunch of pork and clams, “Porco Alentejano” and fresh fish of the day. We had been in the saddle for about 5 hours already so it took quite some effort to get going again, but we all managed it and had a lovely ride back to Herdade do Beicudo where Deborah was waiting for us to help put the horses to bed and her husband Henrique was ready to receive the hungry riders with a huge pan of home made paella and his locally brewed “medronho” (an alcoholic drink like firewater). If the riders weren’t tired enough from the 8-hour ride, the medronho certainly helped them sleep that night!

DAY THREE – HERDADE DO BEICUDO – ALJEZUR

Deborah and Henrique prepared yet another exquisite breakfast to fuel the riders, the horses got some extra carrots that morning and by 10am we were ready for day three, the scenic ride along the coastline. The lovely part about that day is the tracks are soft and sandy, there is shade from the trees and you have beautiful views of the west coast beaches. However the best part is the start of the ride: A good gallop along Carrapateira beach!

A perfect wake-me-up for both the horses and those riders that enjoyed a few too many medronhos the night before! After getting a good few breaths of fresh sea air and some salty wind through our hair we set off towards Aljezur, stopping halfway for another picnic arranged by Sue. The horses are very used to be tied up in unusual places by now! At this point it’s safe to say rider and horse have formed a connection that you only get after hours in the saddle. It becomes a fascinating relationship where you often hear the riders speak for the horse, “Henry would like some more lunch, I think,” and “Forrest listens so well now, he likes me,” and “Magi would love to live in Scotland, surely, I might pack her into my suitcase.”

After a good lunch that consisted of not only sandwiches but also last night’s paella left-over's, we continued on to Gudren’s small riding centre based just outside Aljezur, where we were welcomed by her, her horses and her many dogs!
Aljezur is yet another historic spot, very popular with travellers who like to go off-the-beaten-track. It is a small town with a fort and many narrow cobbled streets. The horses and riders were separated for the night as the riders spent the evening in a local pension which provided them with the opportunity to use the internet to touch base at home.
 
















DAY 4 – ALJEZUR – HOME!

The last day of anything is usually met with mixed emotions. Part of you doesn’t want it to end; the other part is looking forward to not wearing your jodhpurs the next morning. I think the general consensus was that nobody could believe it was nearly over and we were starting our final day! The riders had some breakfast at a local café in the village before heading back to Gudren’s for the final part of our adventure. Gudren joined us for the first part of the ride on one of her youngsters and waved us farewell just before we descended to the main road. It was strange crossing that road knowing we had first crossed it on our first day (except we were now some 40km further north) and this would be the last time. We were leaving the sea air and exchanging it for in-land smells of eucalyptus, pine and farming! The fourth day is completely different riding to the first three. From the spectacular views of the cliffs, sea, west coast and pine beaches, where you feel like you are the only human beings on earth, to a scenic and almost social route. On day 4 you pass many Portuguese houses where the old farmers are stood there waving and wishing you a “Bom Dia” (good morning) and even offering water for the horses. It passes through ancient ruins

and luxury farmhouses. You pass dogs, chickens, a tractor or two and get a fantastic feel of the real Portuguese country life.

Unfortunately for us riders, that day the weather really went against us. We had just started our final descend down into the valley towards QPA when the sky ahead turned black. We knew there was no avoiding getting wet at this point. We had been so lucky the last few days with plenty of sunshine, but not on this day. Instead of heading to the restaurant for lunch, we decided to head straight back to the yard and drive back out as nobody fancied having our final meal together in soggy clothing. Although I think secretly everyone was more worried about their horse standing in the rain than themselves! Once the horses’ feet touched down onto the familiar track of “our” valley we set off in trot and made it back after just an hour. It’s truly amazing how any horse always knows when they are close to home and have this sudden burst of energy that seems to come out of nowhere!

And there it was… Home Sweet Home. The last time the riders would untack their horse; the final pat, cuddle and “Good boy” or “Good girl” and perhaps even a small tear here and there. We showered and fed the horses and put them in dry stables before heading to the restaurant that was supposed to be our final lunch stop. We had made the right decision though, as the weather wasn’t giving up and we were nice and dry (except for Nat who didn’t have a change of clothes!) whilst feasting on the best this area has to offer: fish pie, wild boar stew, home cooked chips, home grown salad and a few bottles of vinho verde, topped off with a few shots of medronho for the brave ones!

A good ending to a fantastic trip with incredible people. A big thanks to our fantastic horses who all got a well-deserved couple of days off after!

This ride is only suitable for experienced riders due to the hours spent in the saddle and the trotting and cantering in between the walking. However, as long as you are confident at trot and canter, we have the right horse for you to increase your confidence where and when necessary. All of our horses are trained trail and school horses and are very responsive and know their job. You will not find a single bored or overworked horse at this yard, they are all forward going, love going for a good gallop, but have breaks when necessary!

The Algarve has the most hours of sunshine per year in Europe. Chances are you will have ideal riding weather with pleasant temperatures and clear blue skies. For more information and dates for our next West Coast Trail Adventure please contact qpahorseriding@gmail.com and for more photos please visit our website: www.qpahorseriding.com or Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/QPA-Horse-Riding-Centre/197446610319777

Quinta Paraiso Alto Riding
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